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You are here: Home / Resources / Research / The Schlappe: Burgher and Landsknecht styles

Research

The Schlappe: Burgher and Landsknecht styles


Schoen_1229_detail2
The Schlappe is a type of Barett from the southern Germanic lands in the time of the 16th century. The name of the cap, Schlappe, is derived from the Middle High German word “slappe” and means a “bag shaped headcovering with flaps” (Zander-Seidel, p.129-137). The ear flaps and the back neck piece are the distinguishing characteristic between the Schlappe and the Barett. There were several distinct styles for civilian and military usage. For military usage it was a man’s cap, but was worn by both women and men in the cities.

 

While there is one extant knitted Schlappe in the Germanische National Museum, the ones that are recorded in the inventory records in Textiler Hausrat are most definitely made out of cloth, with wool being the most common in trading inventories and velvet as the most valuable and more likely to be passed down in wills.

In 1567, Helena Baumgartner left “one old schlappen valued at 1 gulden, 1 velvet schlappen with Poschlein (brim?) with gilded silver fittings valued at 1 gulden.”

From the women’s clothing section of the 1571, inventory of Hieronymous Imhoff there is listed one “1 furred velvet schlappe valued at 3 pounds”.

Bartholomaeus Hartpronner was an Augsburg businessman who did a lively trade in goods from Italy. His trade record books detail several transactions for Schlappen. Between 1533 and 1535 he purchased 87 dozen Schlappen from Italy in several shipments and recorded color details of these:

  • Black – 57 dozen
  • Blue – 14 dozen
  • Red – 7.5 dozen
  • Ash colored – 3 dozen
  • Blue and liver colored – 2 dozen
  • White – 1 dozen
  • Liver colored – 1 dozen
  • Green – 1 dozen

After 1535 he just recorded the purchases of “schlappen of numerous colors” at 2 gulden a dozen.(Zander-Seidel, p.129-137)

Art Research

From the artwork of the period, we get a clear picture of the various styles of Schlappen, as well as a second source of documentation for the colors. Yellow is one color that is documented in the artwork that is not in Hartpronner’s trading records.

Landsknecht Styles

Click on the picture to open the original source
 RO_7001755_detail
Source:RealOnline, bild: 000478
Title: Heilung eines von einer Geschützkugel getroffenen Mannes, 1518- 1522
RO_000629_detailgreen slashed schlappe
Source:RealOnline, bild: 000629
Title: Steinigung des Hl. Stephan, 1515-1525
Altdorfer_TM_detail2

Altdorfer, Triumph of Maximillian, detail from the banner scene, head of one of the banner holders

Altdorfer_TM_detail1 Altdorfer, Triumph of Maximillian, detail from the Tross scene
The following pictures are from The German Single-Leaf Woodcut, 1500-1550, Max Geisberg ; rev. and edited by Walter L. Strauss, New York : Hacker Art Books, 1974.
Schoen_1202

Landsknecht mit Schrammhans, Erhard Schoen, 1535. G.1202

 
Schoen_1203

Doppelsoldner, Erhard Schoen, 1535. G.1203

Schoen_1206_sm

Profos,Lieutenant, Erhard Schoen, 1535. G.1206

Schoen_1207_sm

Captain, Erhard Schoen, 1535. G.1207

Schoen_1208_sm

Captain, Erhard Schoen, 1535. G.1208

Schoen_1217_sm

Musterschreiber, Erhard Schoen, 1535. G.1217

Schoen_1218_sm

Quarter Master, Erhard Schoen, 1535. G.1218

Schoen_1226

Captain of the Landsknecht, Erhard Schoen, 1535. G.1226

Schoen_1227
Detail from Two Leaders and Five Musketeers Erhard Schoen, 1535. G.1227
Schoen_1228_detail1
Detail from Five Musketeers and Five Mercenaries Erhard Schoen, 1535. G.1228
Schoen_1228_detail2
Detail from Five Musketeers and Five Mercenaries Erhard Schoen, 1535. G.1228
Schoen_1229_detail1
Detail from Ten Landsknechts Erhard Schoen, 1535. G.1229
Schoen_1229_detail2
Detail from Ten Landsknechts Erhard Schoen, 1535. G.1229
Stor_1363
Landsknecht, Niklas Stör, 1538, G.1363

Burgher Styles

Click on the picture to open the original source
Durer_1520
Durer, Ein Goldschmied aus Mecheln, 1520
Durer_1521
Durer, Jobst Plankfelt, 1520
 

Portrait of a Woman, 1539 Lucas Cranach

CRANACH, Lucas The Younger
Portrait of a Woman, 1539
Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, Madrid

Bibliography

Zander-Seidel,Jutta Textiler Hausrat, Kleidun und Haustextilien in Nurnberg von 1500-1650 5.2 Barett – Schlappe pages 129 – 137 translated by Katherine Barich. Found online at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GermanRenCostume/files/Textiler Hausrat Translations/

Geisberg/Strauss, The German single-leaf woodcut, 1500-1550, Max Geisberg ; rev. and edited by Walter L. Strauss, New York : Hacker Art Books, 1974.

Altdorfer, Albrecht; Triumphzug Kaiser Maximilians, Szene: Der Schweizer Krieg Triumphzug Kaiser Maximilians, Szene: Der Troß, Detail

 


Originally written in 2007

 


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