This last week, Anna at Renikas anachronistic adventures, posted an excerpted research paper on Schleier, Steuchlein and Vach. I don’t have time at the moment to discuss it in detail, but if you’re interested in the topic, you should read it. However, I did want to discuss the problem of Vach. Vach are the layers of fabric with a ripply edge seen at the edge of women’s veils. For instance, this woman, who is part of a larger sculpture of Jesus being taken down from the cross, has two rows of Vach on the veil wrapped around her forehead.
Detail of Beweinung Christi
Mittlefranken, 1490-1500
Kronach, Inv# MA 1894
Photo by M.McNealy
The problem with Vach, is that in the portraits, the artists draw them as a decorative border, or as lines, but on sculpture, it becomes clear that they are a three dimensional element of the fabric, a woven rippled edge, such as seen here. This was probably woven similar to the silken 12-14th c Spanish veils found at the Burgos Cathedral.
Detail of Muttergotes auf der Mondsichel
Mittlefranken, 1470
Kronach, Inv # MA 1277
Photo by M.McNealy
So what exactly is the problem with Vach then? The problem is finding fabric with this ripply edge, which to the best of my knowledge is not being woven currently, nor have I been able to find someone with the knowledge to weave any.* I don’t think that a headdress which is designed to have Vach will work properly without the ripples locking into place, and stretching over the face to create a smooth line.
(Although I did hear a rumor from someone, who had heard from someone else that someone had done this, but I have not been able to find anything on the internet about this. If you know something about how to get this fabric, please leave a comment!)
I look forward to discussing my ramblings with you at some point. I have not seen the term Vach as referring to just the kruseler edged veils, do you have a source for that? Very intriguing that they should all be with frills even when not showing in art.
Here is someone who sells woven kruseler linen by the meter. I would love to purchase some from her someday but it’s way out of my meager price range (it’s 200 euros/meter).
Sylvia Wiechmann
http://www.Damasthandweberei.de
Katafalk.wordpress.com has a tutorial about her “frilled veil” that she made, forming the frill from a separate length of cloth (in the starched version, it looks much like the first pic above). IMO, even the shawl edging shown above could be done as a separate edging, pleated and starched to hold its shape. Another possibility is that the shawl was knitted–knitting does appear in artwork from the late 14th century and forward, and it’s easy to make a similar frill by increasing.